---------------------p.391------------------------------
MATLOCK
Matlock lies about 12 miles south-east of Buxton,
and 144 from London. Its romantic beauty, as well
as the salutary springs, which enrich this sequestered
spot, render it dear to the man of taste, as well as
to the invalid. To the former it presents Nature in
her wildest and most picturesque attire; to the latter
it furnishes gaiety; without dissipation, and tranquillity
without gloom; while the philosopher will
find a new source of gratification in those objects
which only amuse the eye of uniformed ignorance.
Though nature, says Mr Ward, in his elegantly-written
guide, has lavished numberless beauties on
the delightful Dale in which Matlock Bath is situated,
yet little more than a century has elapsed since it
first began to emerge from obscurity: nor were those
beauties the original cause of its celebrity; but this
--------------------p.392--------------------------------
is rather to be ascribed to a spring of warm water,
which was first noticed in it about the year 1698.
This spring having acquired some reputation on account
of its medicinal qualities, a house or two were
erected near it for the reception of visitors. As the
number of these increased, the houses were gradually
enlarged and rendered commodious; and Matlock,
in a few years, became the general rendezvous
of the neighbouring gentry, who passed much time
together here, composing, as it were, but one family,
and uniting to form a most agreeable society.
MATLOCK
The village which constitutes what is denominated
Matlock-bath consists principally of three inns,
known by the names of the OLD BATH, the NEW
BATH, and the HOTEL, and of two commodious Lodging
houses, all situated on the south-east side of the
Derwent, affording accommodation to about 400
visitors, who live here like one large family, enjoying
every comfort of society without unnecessary
form, and without parade, at a moderate expense.
The roads in the vicinity are as smooth as gravel
walks, and exercise either on foot, in carriage, or
horseback, is as delightful as can be conceived. It
is true indeed that rain falls here more frequently
and copiously than in champaign situations; but the
nature of the soil quickly absorbs the superabundant
moisture, and humidity is never found to affect the
health of the most delicate.
The buildings at Matlock are elegantly constructed
of stone, and cleanliness and comfort pervade the
whole, a circumstance that has attracted the particular
notice of every stranger.
Before the discovery of the springs, no trace of a
wheel had ever been seen in the Dale, which was
chiefly covered with wood; but after that event, a
road for carriages was formed along the western
bank of the river Derwent, that flows through it. The
--------------------p.393--------------------------------
valley itself is about two miles in length, and it runs,
not without several considerable deviations, in a
north and south direction. It terminates towards
the north, near Matlock bridge; and, at its south end,
it is separated from the populous village of Cromford,
by high ground and an immense limestone rock,
called Scarthin rock, through one end of which the
turnpike road has been formed by blasting the stone
with gunpowder. It has often been mentioned as a
subject of regret that, in doing this, the rock was not
merely perforated, and a rude arch left over the
passage. Such a vestibule to this romantic Dale would
have been extremely appropriate, and have produced
a very happy effect.
Upon entering the valley here, the eye is presented
with a very striking view. The river Derwent,
which flows through it with a southern course, here
winds towards the east. Beyond it is seen a lawn;
on the further side, and on a very elevated part of
which stands Willersley Castle, the elegant mansion
of Richard Arkwright, Esq. backed by high ground
and wood. Immediately on the right hand, at the
entrance, besides the vast rock mentioned above,
there appears at some distance, on the nearer bank
of the river, a neat Chapel, erected by Sir Richard
Arkwright; and a little beyond it, a stone bridge
with three arches. Behind this, farther to the east
rises a very elevated woody country; and on the
lower part of it there is a house of white free stone,
built in a very pleasant situation by the late Peter
Nightingale, Esq. On the left of the same entrance
through the rock is a high and steep hill, called
Harpedge. This is the termination of another lofty
mountainous country, which bounds the whole valley
of Matlock on its western side.
Upon entering farther into the Dale, and proceeding
along the bank of the river, the first object that
occurs is a Calvinistic Meeting-house, and a little
way beyond it a large Cotton mill. Nearly opposite
--------------------p.394--------------------------------
this, on the other side of the river, begins a very
striking continuous range of perpendicular rocks,
which rising to the height of more than two hundred
feet, and stretching about half a mile in length,
forms the eastern boundary of that part of the valley
where the Bath-houses are situated. The summit of
this magnificent rampart is crowned with wood; and
the face of it, which is much curved and very irregular,
is softened and rendered pleasing to the eye,
by spreading ivy, bushy yews, and various other trees
which take root and grow in the crevices, and cover
it in such a manner, that large portions of grey
rock are only here and there open to the view.
The ground below the rocks falls, by a steep declivity,
covered with wood, to the brink of the river;
a circumstance which adds much to the beauty of
the dale.
Near the cotton-mill mentioned above, on an
elevated site, stands the neat white stone house of
Adam Wooley, Esq. commanding a fine view of
most beautiful scenery. Advancing hence, we soon
reach, by a gentle ascent, the Inn called the New
Bath, a neat and very comfortable house, kept by
Mr Saxton, and capable of accommodating forty
or fifty persons. It has an excellent spring and
bath; adjoining to it is a large and fruitful
garden, in midst of which grows a remarkable fine
lime-tree, whose numerous branches, spreading around
to a very great extent from its trunk, afford a grateful
shade in summer to the company resorting to it.
Immediately beyond the road passing by the front
of this house, is a spacious level green surrounded
by a gravel walk; and from this, as well as from the
house, there is a most delightful view of the opposite
rocks, which, here particularly, are characterised
by their unparalleled beauty. Beyond the
garden belonging to this Inn is Mrs Fox's lodging
house. This, too, as may be justly observed of the
houses in general, is very neat and comfortable; and
it is calculated for the reception of upwards of
--------------------p.395--------------------------------
twenty persons. At the distance of a quarter of a
mile, still advancing northwards, stands the other
principal inn, called the Old Bath, kept by Mr
Cumming. This house is handsomely furnished,
and of great extent, affording accommodation to
about one hundred persons. Besides a copious
spring of water, and a hot as well as a cold bath;
here is a large assembly room, lighted with glass
chandeliers; and, during the season, which begins
at spring, and continues till November, assemblies
are frequently held in it, chiefly on Mondays, Wednesdays,
and Fridays.
A billiard table is kept both here and at the New
Bath. There is likewise in the front of this house
a level green of considerable extent; and, betwixt
it and the house, a spacious gravel walk, which commands
a very interesting and extensive view, not
only of the opposite rocks, the great ornament of
Matlock, but also of a bold and high hill that,
advancing from the western mountainous country
towards the river, seems here to shut in the valley.
It is the property of Mr Gilbert, and is covered
with a thriving plantation of firs, larches, and other
trees; amidst which is formed a walk leading in a
serpentine, or rather a zigzag, direction towards its
summit.
In the upper part of it is an open Alcove, and
near this is one of the most striking curiosities in
the neighbourhood - the Rutland Cavern. A long
subterraneous passage formed here by miners, with
prodigious labour, through a solid rock of Limestone,
opens into a spacious vault, resembling the
inside of a lofty Cathedral; and a great number of
steps lead, by an easy ascent, up the side of this,
to other vaults and passages, extending far into the
interior parts of the mountain. The cavern is not only
adorned with various crystallizations, but exhibits
likewise specimens of the different ores of lead,
copper, and zinc, which may here be viewed
together with the greatest ease and advantage.
--------------------p.396--------------------------------
From the mouth of the Cavern, and other elevated
parts of the hill, there is an extensive and
most captivating view, not only of the Matlock
Dale, with its delightful scenery, but also of the
neighbouring country. The view is almost equally
striking toward the lower part of the hill, at a house
called the Tower, lately built by Mr Gilbert; and
likewise at another house near it, recently erected,
and properly named Belle Vue by its owner, Mr
Rawlinson, an excellent portrait painter, one of
Romney's pupils, whose merit has scarcely yet been
duly appreciated by the public. A little way below
the latter, is another pleasant house, the property,
and lately the residence, of Dr Smyth; and much
upon the same level, but nearer the Old Bath,
stands the Temple, an excellent lodging-house, kept
by Mrs Evans, its proprietor, in an extremely
agreeable and retired situation.
REPOSITORIES, LIBRARIES, &c
Between the temple and the Old Bath, there is a
very pleasant elevated walk; and about the middle
of it is Miss Millns's long-established Repository,
containing an elegant assortment of female attire,
together with many such ornamental and useful
articles, as are occasionally wanted here, and also a
Circulating Library. In a situation lower than this,
and nearer the river, there are several excellent
lodging-houses, and particularly in that very long,
handsome building, formerly kept as an Hotel.
In the centre of this building is the Museum, or
Derbyshire Ornamental Repository, belonging to
Messrs Brown and Mawe, and containing elegant
Vases, Chimney-pieces, and a great variety of other
articles, formed of marble, spar, and alabaster; and
also a very interesting collection of shells, fossils,
&c. Admittance into the room is free from expense,
and few persons visit Matlock, who do not
avail themselves of the indulgence.
At the south end of the same building are two
other Repositories; one of which is similar to that
just mentioned, the other belongs to Mr Mosley and
--------------------p.397--------------------------------
Co contains various elegant articles of jewellery,
hardware, &c also a NEWS-ROOM, a collection
of Maps and Prints, and a CIRCULATING
LIBRARY.
The other end of the same extensive building is
still kept as an Hotel. It is occupied by Mr Smith,
and is a commodious house, with good stables
belonging to it; it has also the superior advantage
of possessing the same excellent Bath, which
formerly belonged to the large Hotel. Nearly opposite
this house is that of Mrs Buxton, a confectioner.
From the front of the Hotel and the opposite
green, the views of the river and rocks are peculiarly
advantageous; and these views are generally
selected by Artists, who employ their pencils at Matlock.
It may be proper to mention, that there are
scattered here and there several small shops, in
which are kept for sale the various articles usually
made of spar and alabaster.
Besides the Rutland Cavern, there are two others,
that are not undeserving of notice. One of these,
called the Cumberland Cavern, is shewn by Mr
Skidmore, a hosier, who has a well stocked shop a
little way below the New Bath. The other sometimes
also called the Cumberland Cavern, is shewn
by Smedley, who keeps a spar shop near the same
Inn. His cavern is to be seen at some distance up
the hill behind Fox's house, and it is very spacious
and interesting.
UPPERWOOD
A few hundred yards above this is the small hamlet
called Upperwood, the way from which into the
valley passes at a short distance above Smedley's
Cavern, and this part of it is so extremely pleasant,
that it deserves particular notice. Besides the
Caverns already mentioned, another is sometimes
visited in a situation near the top of the wood,
--------------------p.398--------------------------------
behind the Old Bath; but as this is only a mine,
without any natural cavity, it is scarcely entitled to any
remark.
Far more worthy of attention are certain rocks
near it, which have been properly enough termed
the Romantic Rocks. There is a lofty hill or precipice
covered with wood, and beneath it an enormous
mass of limestone, having a perpendicular face, in
some parts fifty or sixty feet high. This face may be
considered as divided into two portions, running in
different directions, in such a manner, that they would
form nearly a right angle at their junction, were
there not in this part a projection of the rock, causing
it to form two angles instead of one. From these
angles, in one of which is the mouth of a mine,
several very large fragments have separated, apparently
at different periods, as they are found at different
distances; and, what is very remarkable, they
remain in an erect posture; some of them rising to
a great height, and consisting of several very large
stones piled one upon another in the regular manner
of mason-work.
The path to these rocks, up the wood behind the
Old Bath, cannot be ascended without some difficulty;
but the scenery by the way, as well as at the
extremity, will amply reward the visitor for a little
trouble, which is all the expense he needs incur, as
the rocks are open to general inspection.
Another object remaining to be mentioned is the
HIGH TOR, a rock which, on account of its superior
magnitude, is far more striking than any other in
the whole Dale. The lofty summit of this celebrated
rock may be seen from the front of the Old Bath.
It stands up the valley, at the distance of almost a
mile from the former place, but on the east side of
the river. It is, in fact, only the most prominent
part of a long range of rocks, similar to that which
is opposite the Baths. The lower part of it is a very
high and steep acclivity, covered, in a great measure,
with low tangled wood: the upper part is a broad,
--------------------p.399--------------------------------
rugged, and somewhat circular mass of lime and toad-stones
rising almost perpendicularly to the height of about
350 feet above the surface of the water. Beneath
it the river rolls down over an irregular, stony bed,
with a violent and noisy current.
CLIFF-HOUSE
It will not be proper to return from this part of the
valley without be observing, that there are other objects
here, which powerfully solicit attention; and particularly
that, near a public house, called the Boat-house,
where the Dale begins to open, there are several
very picturesque scenes, upon which, as well
as upon the Tor itself, the pencil is frequently
exercised. Here also may be noticed a house, called
the Cliff house, erected on the hill opposite the High
Tor, and, from its lofty situation, commanding a
prospect, not only of that and other rocks, but
also of the distant country.
But the views that occur here, however interesting,
are not to be compared with those that are to be
met with, not only on the Heights of Abraham, but
likewise on the margin of the rocks opposite the
Bath-houses. In order to arrive at these it is
necessary to cross the river; and boats are kept for the
purpose on that part of it which is below the Old
Bath. On the nearer side of the river, betwixt the
station for the boats and the New Bath, there is a
grove of tall trees, beautifully decorated with
luxuriant ivy; and a walk that passes through it is
called the Lover's walk.
There is also another walk, so called, on the opposite
side; a walk of great extent, and rendered delightfully
shady by the intermingled branches of a
multitude of trees that hang over, and make one
continued bower of it along the bank of the river.
From this several other paths diverge, and ascend
to the heights above; and, particularly, there is one
that, passing by that very lofty point called the
--------------------p.400--------------------------------
Bird-cage, leads the visitor, with little difficulty, to
the top of the rocks.
WILD-CAT TOR
Upon his arrival here, he finds rich fields of grass
extending to the very border of them; and upon
approaching this, at several openings, but more
especially, upon ascending a remarkable rock near
Willersley, called the Wild-Cat Tor, there bursts
upon the the sight one of the most striking views
that the imagination can form, a view calculated to
excite both awe and admiration - the Dale with all
its romantic scenery, its rocks and precipices clothed
with wood, and the river winding beneath them,
here appearing one dark and unruffled expanse, and
there rushing down a weir, and amidst large stones,
in a broad impetuous cataract.
Should the spectator, in some serene evening,
looking down from his lofty station, behold the
whole bosom of the Dale animated with numerous
parties of the gay visitants; some wandering, as
fancy leads, through the shady walks, others gliding
along on the surface of the water; all, curis expeditis,
in full enjoyment of the surrounding beauties
of Nature, and exhilarated by the strains of musical
instruments proceeding from the recesses of the
groves; this must appear to be a scene truly magical.
WILLERSLY
It is natural here for that excursive faculty, the
imagination, to wander from the contemplation of
such a scene as this, and to contrast it with others,
that are elsewhere to be met with, of a very different
kind: but it may be better to turn from so ungrateful
a subject, and proceed to observe, that the
grounds at Willersly, by Mr Arkwright's obliging
indulgence, are open to all who choose to visit them,
every Monday and Thursday; on which days a person
is appointed to shew them. Views of the most
striking and pleasing kind are to be met with here,
--------------------p.401--------------------------------
chiefly in the principal walk, beginning at the
Castle, and passing up by the gardens, returns in a
circuit of nearly a mile to the house again. The
house itself is not shewn, as its furniture has not
been selected with a view to splendour of appearance,
but rather for the purpose of utility and comfort,
which this mansion possesses in an eminent degree.
It contains some excellent portraits and other pieces
by Wright, of Derby, particularly one of Ullswater
Lake, which was purchased for 300 guineas;
it was the last performance of this excellent artist,
and is most highly esteemed as a chef d'oevre of its
kind. The spot where the house is erected, was
previously occupied by a rock, the removal of which
cost Sir Richard Arkwright about three thousand
pounds.
In this house, on the third of August, 1792, expired
Sir Richard Arkwright; of the extraordinary
importance of whose ingenious inventions the reader
can scarcely need to be reminded. His uncommon
abilities and cast of mind were evinced, not by those
inventions alone, but likewise by the judicious methods
he adopted to carry them fully into effect,and
to secure himself a just proportion of the advantages
resulting from them. "Multa tuli fecique",
were the words chosen for his motto: to a person of
his aspiring mind "Aut Caesar aut nihil", would
have been equally suitable. The first Cotton-mill
that was worked by water, was erected at Cromford:
and the place was chosen by Sir Richard Arkwright
with his usual sagacity, as well on other accounts,
as because the water there, issuing from a sough
that has been formed to drain the lead mines, is
always warm; so that no obstruction is ever occasioned
by frost; and the quantity of water supplied from
this source, is subject to little or no variation. Many
persons who visit Matlock, would, undoubtedly, be
much gratified, if permission were granted to inspect
the mills; but as, in such a situation, a general permission
--------------------p.402--------------------------------
to view them would be attended with much inconvenience,
and a partial one would be offensive
to those who did not obtain it, it has therefore been
determined, that no application for leave shall be
complied with.
ANALYSIS OF THE WATERS
The Matlock water, springing very abundantly
from limestone rocks, is of the clearest kind; and,
having a temperature of sixty-eight degrees, it has
a claim to be admitted into the short list of thermal
waters, that are to be found in England. It has
not been analysed with much exactness; but it has
been found to contain a small quantity of a neutral
salt, probably muriat of soda, and about as much
of an earthy salt, which is chiefly calcareous. Its
calcareous contents are quickly deposited, when it
is exposed to the air, incrusting every substance
that is immersed in it. Curious specimens of this
incrustation are to be seen at, what are called, the
Petrifying Wells at Matlock; and of the same
nature is the tophus, in the bank on the west side of
the river, which is much employed here in building.
Various theories have been formed respecting the
cause of its heat, which is about sixty-eight degrees.
Dr Darwin thinks that it originates in the steam
raised from deep subterraneous fires, and not from
the decomposition of pyrites, superficially situated.
Dr Saunders, in his excellent Treatise on mineral
waters, observes, that Matlock water may be employed
in all those cases wherein a pure diluent
drink is advisable; but it is principally used as
a tepid bath, or at least one which comes to the
extreme limits of a cold bath. On this account it
produces but little shock on immersion, and is,
therefore, peculiarly fitted for those delicate and
languid habits, that cannot exert sufficient reaction
to overcome the effects of the ordinary cold bath,
and on which the benefits it produces chiefly depend.
Matlock water forms a good intermediate
--------------------p.403--------------------------------
bath between Bath or Buxton and the sea, and may
be employed in preparing the invalid for the latter,
but concerning the prevalent custom of resorting
annually to the sea coast for the purpose of bathing,
the author mentioned above gives this important
caution. If we consider, says he, the great difference
that always exists between the summer atmosphere
and the heat of the sea; the bleak exposed aspect of
many even of our most favourite watering-places,
and the keen winds to which the bather must often
be exposed; I cannot but think, that there is a great
number of invalids, of young and puny children,
and delicate females, who have been often materially
injured in their health by an indiscriminate use of
this powerful application of cold; and are thereby
disappointed of the advantages of a more genial
climate, and of country air, exercise, and amusement,
which altogether form a very remedial process,
and give the great charm to an excursion.
CONVEYANCES
A Post sets out on horseback from Bakewell early
every morning, passes through Matlock and Wirksworth
on his way to Derby, and returns in the
evening. A Penny-post office has been established
at Matlock, in the lower part of Fox's lodging house,
and is conducted with proper attention by Adam
Walker, a Saddler.
At Wirksworth is the Bank of Messrs Arkwright
and Toplis, which draws upon that of Messrs Down,
Thornton, and Co London.
A Coach passes through Wirksworth both towards
Manchester and towards London every day.
Each of the inns furnished excellent post chaises;
and open-carriages and saddle horses may generally
be hired, for which the goodness of the roads, and
the many agreeable rides in the vicinity, offer a
frequent inducement.
The London Waggons are met at the Tiger Inn,
in Derby, every Monday and Friday, by a carrier
--------------------p.404--------------------------------
from Wirksworth, who, upon his return, proceeds
to Matlock.
ALPORT HILL
About four miles south of Matlock, and one and
a half from Wirksworth, is a lofty eminence, called
Alport Hill, from which, in a clear day, the Wrekin
in Shropshire is visible, though fifty miles distant.
When a survey of the country was taken a few years
ago, by order of the government, one of the stations of
observation was fixed at Alport Hill, when the
latitude was found to be 53° 3' 43" N
and the longitude 1° 32' 22" West
PLANTS
They who have a taste for botanical pursuits, may
be gratified with the sight of several flowers not
commonly found, that grow wild in the neighbourhood
of Matlock; particularly those of the orchis
kind; of which the following species may be found
here:
Orchis bifolia, butterfly orchis has a
sweet scent during night.
Orchis pyramidalis, late flowering orchis
-- morio, meadow orchis
-- mascula, early orchis
-- ustulato, dwarf orchis
-- maculata, spotted orchis
-- canopsea, red-handed orchis
Satyrium viride, frog satyrion
Ophrys muscifera, fly orchis
-- apifera, bee orchis
WIRKSWORTH
The Route from Matlock Bath to Derby may furnish
occasion for our first remarks
The distance from Matlock Bath to Cromford, is 1 mile.
to Wirksworth, 3 miles
to Kedleston, 14 --
and to Derby, 17 --
At the distance of two or three hundred yards
above Cromford, on the left side of the road towards
--------------------p.405--------------------------------
the summit of the hill, are some rocks of gritstone,
which are very remarkable, both on account of their
magnitude and form, and because, from their lofty
situation, they command a striking view of Willersly
Castle, and of the rocks and hills adjacent to it and
Matlock.
--------------------end of extract-----------------------
All Rights Reserved.